Friday, December 18, 2009

The classic Taiwan Tie-Guan-Yin


Tie-Guan-Yin has an interesting story, that shows how "market driven" has changed tea's production.
In Taiwan, you still find Tie-Guan-Yin with heavier oxidation and baking. The semi-ball shape appears to be larger in size. Not all Tie-Guan-Yin in Taiwan is made of the leaf that plucked from Tie-Guan-Yin cultivars. Usually, tea farmers will select certain tea cultivars, such as: Buddha Palms, Yinjeehonsin Oolong, Ginsuan...besides the genuine TieGuanYin bushes, as long as they are suitable for heavy-rolling and baking to enhance the flavor and taste. Tea pros will definitely avoid Chinsin Oolong or certain tea plants.
On the contrary, nowadays in the origin of Tie-Guan-Yin, Fujien Anxi in China, you often get Tie-Guan-Yin in tiny semi-ball with a lot more greenish finished, which is similar to average Taiwan Gaoshancha. During the last two decades, Taiwan's Jade Oolong has earned its popularity all over the World, including China. Many Chinese tea makers are adjusting to produce their own Jade Oolong as close as Taiwan's version to meet the strong demand. Many will grow the new tea bushes they got from Taiwan (we are not sure HOW?) but also many will use the tea leaves from their current Tie-Guan-Yin tea gardens. Well, not to be surprised that sometimes you get served with a cup of Green Tie-Guan-Yin, and you simply cannot swallow it... Nothing wrong with the tea, just an old wisdom: You can use any leaf to make any kind of tea. However, you have to study the right cultivar and its integrity, use the right leaf and follow the right procedure to make good tea. Tea making is actually a high disciplined practice.
I like to share with you how a classic Tie-Guan-Yin is processed in Taiwan.
I change the Lyrics of a popular Hakka Taiwanese riddle, with new lyrics to describe it:
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Tie-Guan-Yin, what a unique name for a tea!
Iron Buddha of Mercy, Goddess Tea...with all sorts of legends.
In 1896, Mr. Chang Nai-Miao brought the first bush from Anxi, China to Muja, Taiwan., together with the craftsmanship from its hometown.
Since then, Taiwan lauched its own Tie-Guan-Yin production.
Just like other Oolong teas: solar withering, indoor withering...
but with heavier oxidation before rolling repeatedly wrapped in canvas cloth till the leaves are semi-ball shaped...
Place the leaves in a bamboo basket and skillfully bake with selected charcoals...
in pursuit of the amazing aroma and its lingering finish.
We are proud to present to you this classic Taiwan Tie-Guan-Yin, and share its legendary story.
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鐵觀音 (用 謝宇威 改編 客家唸謠 「月光光」)

鐵觀音 盡傳神
佇台灣 生了根
布球包 揉成型
竹籠裝 炭火炡
焙出 陣陣 茶葉香
入喉 轉甘 韻味長

好茶 拿 來 請 人 飲

讚歎 台 灣 鐵 觀 音

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